Amazon River Run

In June 2015, two adventurers set off on an expedition to kayak the 4,000 miles of the longest and largest river in the world, the Amazon.They started at the source, 4,500m high up in the Peruvian Andes, and followed one of the seven natural wonders of the world through some of the worlds most inhospitable and deadly environments to Belm in Brazil where it flows into the Atlantic Ocean.

We faced a huge number of mentally and physical challenges. The trip began by walking 400 miles up and over the Andes, reaching 4,500m peaks on a regular basis. Having walked for 36 days the pairkayaked an arduous 10+ hours a day for the remaining 93 days. Food was rationed to what we were able to carry, stocking up with additional items when we passedthrough communities and towns.We were on the river for months on end with only one another to talk to. The every day stresses builtas we grew more tired further downstream. We will need to motivate ourselves and each other in order to push through these barriers and reach our destination.

The river is home to some of the worlds deadliest species including huge catfish, vicious bull sharks, aggressive crocodiles, flesh-eating piranha, giant centipedes, deadly spiders, electric eels and the worlds largest snake, the Anaconda. Its also home to many of the worlds rarest species including the endangered pink dolphin and the threatened Andean Condor.There was the risk of picking up one of the seven potentially fatal diseases contracted through the water and its marshy banks.We needed all our wits and negotiating skills on multiple sections of the river from the infamous Red Zone, the coca growing and trafficking area of Peru, to the pirate infested mangroves of the lower regions in Brazil.

We battled with high altitudes, heat, humidity, tropical storms, insects, wild animals and tribes at war to name a few. The climate varied along the route, starting at below freezing near the source. Downstream temperatures soared with extreme heat and brutal humidity, changing in an instant to tropical thunderstorms that lasted for days at a time. This is the Amazon River Run. 

Lake Baikal, Siberia - Winter Crossing

In February I undertook an expedition to cross Lake Baikal in southern Siberia to raise money for my chosen charity the Dr Hadwen Trust. Lake Baikal is the deepest lake in the world at 1,642 m deep, 395 miles long and 49 miles wide. It holds a fifth of the worlds fresh water and is thought to be the oldest lake in the world.

I wanted to see this remote region and taste the real cold of Russia. I flew into Irkutsk, just north of the southern tip of the lake. From there we drove 4 hours to Olkhon Island. Just off the central west coast the island sits in the widest part of the lake and provided the launch point for our trek. On the drive we got our first taste of an ice road: the ice is over a metre thick at this time of year and the government mark out ice roads where the ice is strongest - this changes every winter. In summer the only way to the Island is via ferry. We drove a fair distance over rough and bumpy roads and finally arrived at our stopover for the night. It is a place called Khuzhuir and as well as having some fantastic scenery it is a place of significant spiritual meaning to the Buryat people (originally Mongolians, now one of the largest indigenous groups in Siberia). The town is small and relatively untouched by tourism so our hotel was brand new, smelling strongly of fresh wood. Tourism is growing though and it was surrounded by developing wooden structures.

Later we visited the shores and I slept restless thinking about the upcoming journey. Morning strikes and it is very windy as the breeze washes over the exposed town from the mountains. Today we drive across the island to Uzury - not even a town, but a weather station situated in a bay on the east side of Olkhon. Here we taste proper cold - as I get out the car and walk onto the ice I feel my nostrils start to freeze. I'm definitely glad I packed my warm belay parka. Again we stay in an amazing little hut on the beach with a stone oven inside to keep us warm. Before dusk we climb a small hill overlooking the bay and enjoy the amazing vistas infront of us, if not just a little nervous at seeing the vastness we have to cover. In the evening we go for our first 'Banya' - a Russian sauna. I am glad to have the heat soothe our muscles and relaxes our nerves, for the following morning we set out on the lake. As I walk back to our hut (my wet hair freezing) I look up at the stars and see more than I have ever seen. I am so happy to be alive and feel truly in the present moment.

The sun rises and we get up slowly. A big breakfast to fuel a big day is eaten, and we start to pack our sleds. When I carry my sled to the ice, with 2 tents, a sleeping bag, all my clothes, food and water, I worry it will feel very hard to pull. I put on my harness as we prepare to leave, look back at land, and start to walk. With no snow on the ice there is very little friction and reassuringly my sled glides fairly easily behind me. The ice is crystal clear in places and it feels very strange to walk on - some people are known to have had vertigo standing over the darkness, and being there I can understand why - walking from cloudy ice to a clear patch feels like walking off the edge into water, your stomach drops and you have to remind yourself how thick the ice is.

As the sun comes up the ice warms and the ice around you starts to crack with alarming force - the noise is like a gunshot and the ice sometimes shudders underneath you. This takes a lot of getting used to - my instinct is to run! 30 minutes into our walk we hit our first obstacle; this winter has been relatively warm for the region and as such there are many ice hummocks - big boulder fields of ice blocking your path. They can go on for kilometres, or sometimes just metres, but as some are well over 6ft tall walking over them isn't often possible. Even the small ones can topple your sled over making walking very slow and tedious. Much winding and weaving gets us a decent way, though we realise the distance we are really going to walk is a lot longer than our straight line measurements.

After a few hours my beard is covered in icicles and the first pangs of tiredness starts to hit my legs. 7 hours of walking is what we think it will take to cover the 20km target - I get in the zone and push on, occasionally munching energy bars and drinking hot tea to keep me fueled. After seemingly endless hours and boulder fields we start to look for a decent patch to set-up camp. I had worried about sleeping on the ice as once static it is much harder to stay warm, especially at -30C. I was concerned how my gear would hold up - there is no mercy in Siberia. Once you start cooking the tent warms up and when I got in my sleeping bag I felt confident.

After 4 days of insomnia I ironically got a decent nights sleep - that's what exhaustion will do for you! We wake up with our sleeping bags and tent walls covered in hoar frost. Every time I move it rains down on my face - I dread having to get out of my warm sleeping bag, but quickly the excitement builds and soon I am raring to get going. We look out the tent and see during the night the wind has collapsed our cooking tent. I make a mental note to take more ice screws to anchor the tents next time. Warming up my frozen boots doesn't take too long and I feel very pleased at how well my cold weather gear is working for me. My nose and beard freezes almost instantly in the morning winds, and I can only take my gloves off for a moment before my hands freeze, but I am warm under all my layers and can stay outside almost indefinitely. After some difficult packing-up in the winds, we set off. I start strong, feeling very rested, grinning constantly.

After about 5 hours of fast paced walking my body starts to crash. My feet are sore from the way my Microspikes are sitting on the soles of my feet, my ankle is rolling slightly also due to mis-positioning of the spikes, and an old injury in my hamstring is occasionally making me wince. We push past our 21km target and my body tells me it has had enough - my ankle hurts and I slow to a snails pace. I know we need to set up camp fast. We find the closest possible spot and set up the tent. As I dig out a platform for the tent with an aluminium shovel I can't be bothered to put on my glove back on. When I go to put it back on, for some reason my hand doesn't fit in the liner - I realise it is numb. Fear stirs in my stomach - the skin is white and all the stories of frostbite I have heard play through in my mind. I unzip my parka and put my hand under my armpit, praying the warmth will thaw it out. Quickly the blood starts to flow back and I know I am in the clear.

It is a stark reminder of how quickly a small mistake can lead to massive consequences here. I collapse into the tent, eat the chocolate coins my Mother gave me back in England, and feel my blood sugars start to rise. Exhaustion blurs your mind and I realise I have to keep on top of my vitals if I am going to stay safe. The night is a noisy one; as we are sleeping behind ice hummocks to block the wind it means we are right next to a fault-line in the ice. The loud cracks and shuddering of the tent keep me awake, and I hear noises outside the tent - in the morning I am told it was a 'Nerpa', or Baikal Seal scratching the ice, perhaps making a breathing hole. As I get up I do my usual morning routine of Ice Yoga and my ankle feels a lot better, but I use a compression bandage from my first aid kit to be safe. We pack up and get going - today we have to cover almost 30km, but with the coast in sight we are very motivated and I feel the strongest yet - my body is adjusting to the abuse. As we get closer to the eastern side of the lake it starts to snow slightly, the Mongolian side of the lake is a lot colder and snowier than its Russian counterpart. Snow increases the friction on the ice so our sleds feel heavier.

The day is long but we can taste the finish - I think a lot about the charity, the money I am raising and my family, and use this to push me past my limits. Just half a kilometre from the shore, clearly reaching the shallows, we hit our biggest ice hummocks yet. With spirits still high, and laughing, we all take different routes over these ridiculously big slabs of ice. Some of them pivot and it definitely feels precarious. Suddenly we realise there are no more steps to take - we have made it.

I take pictures with a banner for my charity and all that is left is to drag our sleds over some snow drifts 15 ft high, how they got to be so big I can't imagine. We call in our pickup by satellite phone and drive to Maksimikha for another night in a fantastic on-shore hotel - this area is so remote we are the only guests out of 30 rooms. We spend the next day leisurely driving around the national park, bathing in hot volcanic springs (a very strange experience feeling your beard freeze whilst your body is in a hot bath), climbing up on islands, walking in caves, visiting temporary ice fishing villages (having lunch in one of their yurts) and playing with the very friendly local dogs.

We drive to Ulan-Ude where we finish our journey. I can safely say this has been one of the best things I have ever done, and can highly recommend the winter Lake Baikal experience to anyone looking for a polar-like expedition without the polar price tag!Thanks for reading! :)"

Corvara: The best resort in the Dolomites?

Corvara, situated in the heart of the Alta Badia, is bursting with life during the summer months and for very good reason; not only is it surrounded by breathtaking mountain peaks, Corvara also provides accessibility to easier, moderate and high level paths which makes it one of the best places in the area for walking in the Dolomites.

The Alta Badia is renowned for its natural beauty and Corvara certainly delivers with the seemingly endless rim of peaks surrounding the town. The Fanes National Park stretches to Cortina in the east and provides outdoor enthusiasts with high level walks and stunning 360⁰ panoramas, whilst the Puez-Odle National Park, home to the dramatic Sassongher peak towering over Corvara, provides views as far as the Austrian Alps. Easier walks can be had alongside the Sella Massif whereby waterfalls can be discovered and children are able to enjoy the vast open wild flower meadows. Do not however feel that there is any missing out to be had chairlifts run continuously during the day so that the higher paths and picturesque rifugios can be reached with little demand on your legs. All grades of these fantastic walks are impressively way-marked by wooden posts, accompanied by estimated times to the next village; helping you plan your well earned apple strudel stop of the day.

The paths themselves are easily accessible from Corvara, with many of them a mere two-three minute walk from the centre. Of course the walks slightly further afield are just as easily accessed buses run frequently from the centre and the Tyroleans are proud of their reliability and promptness. Why not also venture to nearby towns such as La Villa and Badia (formerly Pedraces) for a true South-Tyrolean experience of a different kind. There is certainly plenty to keep individuals, couples and families alike entertained within the town itself. The long main road which stretches to the top of the hill brings light to the many tea rooms, restaurants and gelato hot spots in Corvara, offering many temptations even for those passing through. The outdoor climbing wall provides a place to practise before heading out onto the limestone rock and offers a great activity for the younger ones whilst parents can relax in the sun on the open grassland opposite.

An outdoor swimming lake is accessible for the day at a small cost but if you fancy something a bit wilder then hopping on the Boe lift next door will drop you near Lech de Boe, a beautiful secluded lake buried amongst high rising rock faces of the Sella Massif. During the evening, a popular bar named The Underground is worth a visit for their Italian style dishes and the ever popular Hugo thirst-quencher a must try in these parts. Every Thursday night Corvara can be enjoyed under sunset as the main road is transformed into a frenzy of live music, dancing and late-night shopping without the disruption of transport. Alternatively, get your skates on at the indoor Ice rink to grasp an idea of what its like here in the Dolomites during the winter season. The practical side to Corvara means that no unnecessary travelling to find the essentials has to be had. Kostner supermarket is around the corner if you run out of shampoo and the local pharmacy is at hand just in case that annoying hay fever decides to kick in. The information centre is up to date with local events and has some beautiful postcards on sale, dramatically impersonating the surrounding area.

Have I mentioned that Sport Kostner, a shop full of practical outdoor gear, work closely with Colletts and offer a 10% discount to all of their guests very handy if you find youve forgotten your walking socks! It would be a sin not to mention the accommodation in Corvara which is provided by Colletts Mountain Holidays. It may seem a difficult choice between the three properties on offer, but each hold their own charm and offer a unique chalet experience during your walking holiday in the Dolomites. Each chalet is residence to a local family who wish to welcome guests into their home, sharing their love and experience of the mountains. The Colletts team endeavour to impart their knowledge of the area so that all you have to do is enjoy whats on offer, whether thats organised walking, self-guided walking, Via Ferrata, World War One excursions or testing out your wildflower knowledge in the meadows.

The accommodation is evenly spread across Corvara which gives each chalet its own exclusive hold on the area. Chalet Angelo sits at the top of the hill, providing wonderful views over Corvara in its entirety and is a short walk away from 360⁰ panoramas on the Pralongia Plateau. For those who enjoy convenience, Chalet Verena sits near the heart of Corvara near to the river whereby shops and buses can be accessed within minutes. The stunning Sassongher peak towers over Chalet Bracun and is situated upon entrance to the town, a short walk from secluded picnic areas and has the added benefit of a spa and sauna. Self catering and a hotel experience are also on offer within the area, accommodating for all guests needs during their break away. As far as walking holidays in the Alps are concerned, the Dolomites is a faultless destination and Corvara holds dear to it all of the elements that make it a perfect place for walkers of every ability.

An adventurous day on the mountains, followed by a heart-warming Italian meal surrounded by like minded people will have you begging the question Why didnt I come here sooner? With so many things to see and do, and with an impossibility of squeezing it into one or two weeks, it is inevitable that Corvara will have you booking next years flights without hesitation.

Trip Report: Pilgrimage England to Rome

In 90 days I walked from Canterbury, England to the Vatican in Rome. A 2200 kilometer journey across England, France, Switzerland, The Alps and Italy.

On my website you can see the 6 episodes series about the pilgrimage and the challenges that we faced.

http://www.thedutchadventurist.comrom - 16th Sep to 15th Dec 2012

Trip Report: Hitchhiking across Australia

In 10 days I hitchhiked a total distance of 4000 kilometers across Australia. I started in Darwin and hitchhiked my way south to Griffith in New South Wales.

I was surprised by all the help I received from strangers!from 10th Jun to 20th Jun 2012. Visit the website.

http://www.thedutchadventurist.com

Trip Report: Phantom Cave

During the 2012 seven-day expedition, our team managed to extend the known horizontal cave passage from 8,445 feet (2,475 meters) to 9,845 ft (3000 m), and the maximum depth from 79 feet freshwater (24 m) to a totally unexpected 237 ffw (72 m).

These numbers officially catapulted Phantom Springs Cave to the 14th deepest and 17th longest cave in Texas, also making it the third longest underwater cave in the United States (outside of Florida). We knew then that we had to return and finish what we had begun.

For further details of the 2012 expedition. http://www.admfoundation.org/projects/phantomcave2013/phantom2013.html

Trip Report: French, Swiss and Italian Alps with my children

After months of preparation, the team finally set off for Dover to meet the rest of the expedition group and support team. Team set off at 5pm on the 20th July 2013, and had a good run down to London and then hit the M25!

GPS notified us of long tail backs but it was too late. 2 hours stuck in queue's doing 5 mph was not much fun. The campsite we had booked shut its gates at 9pm, and the GPS was displaying ETA 9.50pm! A quick call to the campsite was needed to let them of our situation. Thankfully they agreed to meet us and let us onto out pitch as long as we made it before 10pm! A heavy right foot was needed by the driver...!!!! At exactly 9.50pm as the GPS has displayed we arrived in the dark at 9.50pm, shown to our pitch, and the team jumped into action to make camp, and by 10.20pm everyone was tucked up in bed! An excellent sleep was had by everyone, and 6am next morning the driver was up and cooking eggs, bacon and beans for everyone. After breakfast Heidi and Markus did the washing up (bribed by the driver with a treat afterwards), and then went off to explore the campsite facilities. What a fantastic place!!! Shame we are only here for a few more hours, but this is one campsite to make a note of. The showers are brilliant and the best we have ever been to, large play area for kids and the pitches are fantastic and is only 30 mins from Dover. http/www.broadhembury.co.uk/

Check in for the ferry to France is at 11.00 am so the team is now enjoying the warm sun, and cannot see a cloud in the sky before packing up the tent and heading off to meet the rest group..!!!! T shirts, shorts, and sun glasses on..... Next stop France....... Alps Late update 21-7-12 Met the rest of the team on the Ferry crossing. 5 Vehicles in total. Stopped for provisions at a store as soon as we got off the ferry and then proceeded to the 1st campsite. Campsite has pool, so the driver and Heidi went for a swim to cool off, while Markus played on the assault course. Welcome briefing given by Alex from Atlas Overland, and plan for tomorrow is a 6 hour drive south. Team need to be packed up and on the road for 9am tomorrow. Markus and Heidi are not the only children on the trip. Lauren who is 9 years old is also part for the group, so all the kids are playing nicely. Markus and Heidi did the washing up again, (bribed by the driver), and are enjoying running wild at the campsites. Update again soon........... Alps Update 22-7-12 250 miles covered today all on main roads. We are now camped at Joinville. Another fantastic site with pool and great facilities.

Land Rover has developed a rattle, which as of yet we cannot track down what it is, but so far we still have forward motion...!!! Its getting hotter and windows now always down, and plenty of juice needed to keep everyone cool. 9 year old Lauren, who is also on the trip, is going to have her 10th birthday during our expedition. Seems like yesterday Markus was having his 10th birthday in Morocco... Lauren will be getting a card from everyone in the group. Tomorrows plan is to push further south, and then the off road sections will start. Kids still doing the washing up, but the driver is fast running out of sweets for the bribes....... Alps Update 23-7-12 After 841 miles from leaving Norwich, the team has finally arrived in the Alps. A long drive today on main roads, and we arrived at our campsite at 5pm. Our senses are on overload as the scenery is incredible..!!!!! Our campsite is surrounded by massive mountians. Its still very hot and Markus and Heidi are in shorts and T shirts enjoying the weather and staying cool by having water fights..!

The Land Rover rattle is still there, but we covered over 300 miles today so nothing has fell off and we still have forward motion. We were welcomed at the campsite with a complimentary fruit punch, which the driver made the most of.!!! We will now spend the next few days exploring the area on old tracks, which we have been told are not for the faint hearted... Alps Update 24-7-12 Team set off today at 10am to explore tracks around the area. We ascended to over 2100 Meters on single track dirt roads, which twisted and turned every few hundered meters! The trip today was not for the faint hearted, as we were driving along tracks with no barriers, and a shear drop to oblivion only inches from the wheels. Both Markus and Heidi hung on for dear life when they spotted the massive drops, and the driver was holding the steering wheel a bit tighter than normal...!!!! On a few occasions a 'shunt' was needed in order to get the Land Rover around the bends, and everyone held thier breath, as the Land Rover was stopped inches from the drop off and reversed in order to make it round. The driver is very glad that Markus helped fit new brake pads before the trip..!!! The scenery was stunning, and the camera does not give the area justice.

I recommend everyone come and explore this area, as the views are just incredible...!!!! On the decent we drove a fantastic tarmac road through amazing mountian tunnels and also drove down part of the Tour De France section. I have no idea why anyone would want to subject themselves to biking up those gradients........ !!!??? Everyone arrived back at Camp HQ, and proceeded to have a water fight to cool down, and Markus and Heidi made sure the driver was soaked...!!! The camp shower was also used to cool everyone and to clean off all the dust from the days exploring. Tomorrow we move on from this area and will be exploring other routes...... Alps Update 25-7-12 What an incredible day..!!!! The team and the rest of the group made it to the top of the Glacier at 3000M (10,000ft). The route was hair raising and needed 300% concentration from the driver. ''Oh MY GOD we are going to die'', was Heidi's comment as we started to ascend up towards the Glacier. The Land Rover bounced and scambled up the tracks. I was glad I had fitted underbody protection..!!!!! Low range and diff lock was needed all the way up..!!! Markus and Heidi enjoyed exploring the Glacier once we arrived at the top, and had fun jumping around in the snow.

The team is now in Italy, and had a fantastic drive over mountian passes and across the French, Italian border. The scenes were stunning, and we have never seen rivers and lakes with such incredible blue colour! The forests are amazing and the smell of the pine is strong as you drive though the area. We are going to explore some old military roads tomorrow, and will finish the day off with a BBQ Alps Update 26-7-12 Another fantastic day with incredible scenery!! After our 'griefing' as Heidi calls it (meant to be briefing) at 9am we set off to explore the tracks. We made it along more cliff edge routes up to 2500 meters, and Alex our support guide gave us interesting insite into the history of the battles in the area which explained the secret forts and memorials. The tracks twisted and turned and the Land Rover bounced over these with ease, and we even had a muddy section which we managed to get through with the help of the diff lock. Low range was needed most of the time until we got back onto tarmac. Once on tarmac we started to make our way down on roads which had severe twists and turns. All seemed to be going well until about halfway down and team Global adventures Land Rover losts all its brakes!

The driver quickly pumped the pedal, and managed to gain some usage out of the brakes again. This continued all the way down until the road levelled out and the brakes started to operate as normal again. Brake fade is something that most people encounter, but this was extreme, as the pedal hit the floor of the Land Rover, and we had nothing until a few pumps of the pedal was applied!!! As soon as the brakes had cooled from the hard work, everything worked as normal..!! First thing we shall do once back in UK is replace all the brake fluid.....!!! BBQ was lit at the end of the day and a few beers consumed, kids needed a good wash , and both fell asleep within seconds of hitting the pillow..!! Tomorrow we are going to be following in the footsteps of Hannibal and his elephants..!! Alps Update 27-7-12 The emergency sweets had to be opened last night as one of Heidi's front tooth fell out and she accidentally swallowed it! She was upset to think that the tooth fairy would not come as she could not put it under her pillow.

Thankfully the Italian tooth fairy came and slide some Euro's into the tent... As before we had our 'griefing', and headed out to explore the Hannibal's trail. What an excellent route with challenging sections, and amazing scenery..!!!!! The Land Rover coped well and brakes behaved themselves. Diff lock and low range was needed for most of the route! Lunch was had beside an amazing lake with incredible blue coloured water, which of course the kids just had to dip thier toes into. We are now back in France at Bourg-Saint-Maurice and will be here for the next 3 days. Tomorrow is a rest day, and I have booked the Land Rover into a local garage to have the brake fluid flushed and replaced, to ensure I do not boil the brake fluid again on steep mountain passes...!! Sunday is planned to be a day at Europe's biggest offroad course, so the team are looking forward to having a bit of fun after out rest day tomorrow. Markus and Heidi are still full of smiles, and are enjoying every minute...!!!! The driver is looking forward to his rest day tomorrow!

Alps Update 28-7-12 Nice relaxing day today, but woke up with loud thunder and lightening..!!!! Did the breakfast between downpours, and ran back and forth to the washing machine between storms..! Took the Land Rover to have its brake fluid flushed, and 30 mins later its all done with fresh fluid. Heidi and Markus played all day either in the roof tent when it was raining, or ran around the campsite when the sun was out. Neither of them missed a TV, X box or U tube....!!! The first aid kit had to be opened due to the fact one of Heidi's teddys nose fell off, so it was stuck back on ASAP..! Off to Europe's biggest offroad course tomorrow, but if it keeps raining then, its going to be an interesting day..! The course sits on the side of a mountain at 2500 meters, and apparently you need low box just to get to the course..! Alps Update 29-7-12 Everyone slept very well and woke up to sunshine again. The team headed off to Europes biggest offroad course, to have a day practicing 4x4 techniques and skills, and also to explore the area. This is the first course I have been on when you need low box and diff lock engaged just to get to the site!

The site sits on a mountain at around 2700 Meters!! We were given a guide of the site by Alex our team leader and we marked the lunch spot with our GPS, as the site is so big, you need a GPS to find your way back...!!!! Everyone had great fun, and severe hill climbs and obstacles were tackled, and Team Global Adventures even made it across a balance beam. Deep water was also negotiated, and tricky rock sections also negotiated. After a fun day, everyone headed back to camp, to make the evening meal and Heidi then announced that Dad's cooking was waaaayyyyy better than Macdonalds...... Another end to a great day...!!! Alps Update 30-7-12 Lovely relaxing day! Sun beaming down and not a cloud in the sky. Heidi and Markus decided to try out the assault course near the camp site and scrambled up nets and slide down slides most of the afternoon. They also had a second go at the bungie's which were close to the campsite, and Markus managed to do double front and back flips!! Land Rover topped up with fuel and cleaned ready for the next part of the adventure. The team are going to enter Switzerland tomorrow, and apparently the Swiss do not take kindly to 4x4 covered in Alps mud, hence everyone was instructed to clean their vehicles.Food supplies have been replenished, and it has been a challenge for the team to try and buy food and drinks, when none of us can understand the language! Our planned campsite is directly on the shores of Lake Geneva, so the team will be dipping their toes into the lake before heading off into the city to explore.

Alps Update 31-7-12 The morning started with celebrating Lauren's 10th Birthday. Cup cakes were handed around and everyone sang several versions of Happy Birthday. The drive started with a road that twisted and turned that made you dizzy, and we started to climb . At 10am we stopped for a coffee break and both Markus and Heidi had ice cream's to help celebrate Lauren's birthday. Although Heidi was least impressed with the outside toilet at the cafe, and the long drop type loo.... We continued to climb and passed incredible scenery, although nothing prepared us for the view at Lunch time..!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We rounded the corner and in front of us was an amazing view of Mt Blanc..! The view was breathtaking, and we spent the hour gazing at the view. Never has the team had lunch at 2000M height and had a view like that before. (see the pictures) We continued towards Switzerland, and had to negotiate more twisting roads, with suicidal bikers who have a habit of overtaking you doing 40 MPH..!!! Its a shock to see a cyclist overtake you at such speeds, but they can easily get up to 40 MPH on these mountain roads. We finally entered Switzerland and found our campsite which we were astounded to find the campsite directly on the shore of Lake Geneva..!!!!!!

We quickly made camp, put on our swimming stuff and jumped into Lake Geneva for a swim..!! There is a floating platform off the beach at about 50M, and to my amazement both kids flung themselves into the Lake and swam out to the raft, and then proceeded to jump off it over and over again!!! Smiles all round, and laughter was heard well into the afternoon..!! What a great day, and we are here for tomorrow so the fun will continue.................... Alps Update 1-8-12 The morning started with Heidi and I having an early morning swim in Lake Geneva. We swam out to the floating pontoon again, but had to stop halfway to let 4 swans pass by us. We then sat on the pontoon and counted 18 swans, 1 Crane who was looking for his morning fish, and 100's of ducks. Markus was still half asleep so declined to join us. After a lazy breakfast, we jumped on a bus and headed off into town to explore Geneva. Heidi and Markus enjoyed standing under the massive powerful water jet that is a symbol of Geneva, and cooled down in the spray from the jet. We also took a solar powered small train around the city to see the sights. Markus and Heidi's highlight was driving the mini boats that were on hire, and spent 15 mins driving around Lake Geneva in their own mini cruise liner.

Town was very hot, so even several ice creams could not keep the team cool, so we headed back and quickly jumped in the pool, and are then going to finish the day with an evening swim back in the Lake, as tomorrow we say goodbye to Switzerland and start our route North..... Alps Update 2-8-12 None of us had a very good nights sleep, as Switzerland were celebrating and the whole coast of Lake Geneva exploded with 100's of fireworks well into the night.The whole group were rather quiet as we all knew today would be rather boring roads heading North as we are coming to the end of our expedition. The day was as expected as we left Geneva and then crossed the border again and cruised along the French motorways. Markus and Heidi soon fell asleep. At record speed we all arrived at Joinville, and set camp, and the adults raced down to the bar to make use of the happy hour..!!! Markus, Heidi and Lauren raced to the childrens area, and spent the rest of the day swinging from the monkey bars, and going down the slides. Both Markus and Heidi have told me they have loved the trip, and we are all discussing where we should explore next. Suggestions have been - Portugal, Further south into Italy, Germany, Iceland, Poland, Arctic Circle, Egypt, Tunisia and back to Morocco......... Who knows where the next trip will be....?!!! Tomorrow is another long drive to get close to Dunkirk, to get ready for the ferry back to the UK.....

Alps Update 3-8-12 Markus and Heidi had to be dragged out of bed this morning, as neither of them wanted to get up. The group was away sharp at 9am for the long drive north to St Omar. The drive was long and boring on the French Northern Roads, and the drive was only interrupted by the expensive French tolls, which had great delight in relieving us of our last few Euro's. We eventually arrived at St Omar, and both Heidi and Markus quickly jumped into the pool with Lauren, while some fo the adults went and visited the V2 Missile site, which was incredible! We all said our goodbye's to Alex who was our support crew from Atlas Overland and we all pitched camp. Tomorrow is a very short drive to the ferry terminal for the crossing back to Dover, followed by the drive back to Norwich. Both Markus and Heidi were a little upset when we arrived at the last campsite, as they said they have had an excellent time and are going to miss all of the group. I will do a final Blog once the Global Adventure team have arrived back home in Norwich, but I can honestly say both Markus and Heidi have been absolutely incredible during this expedition, and they have done the washing up everyday, helped with making and breaking camp, plus have helped each other, and also have made great friends with Lauren and the rest of the group.

To date we have covered 1800 Miles, on very steep tracks, rocky glaciers, through rutted forest tracks, and long motorways, and both Heidi and Markus have coped amazingly well!!! I am very proud of them both, and will have great fun in planning the next Global Adventure expedition with the team..!!! Alps Final update 4-8-12 The Global Adventure team has made it home after a 2100 mile trip around the Alps. Both Markus and Heidi coped incredibly well, and they both enjoyed the expedition. There are so many highlights of the trip from the 3000 Meter Glacier from following the Hannible route, to swimming in Lake Geneva, nobody can decide which was the best bit of the trip! We all agree that the lowlight was the Northern French roads which are rather boring.

The weather was excellent and we only had one day of rain, and all team members have come home with a nice tan and loads of great memories!!! Alex from Atlas Overland did a superb job of managing to keep the whole group together and to arrive at the planned destinations on time. He was also excellent at enlighting us of the history of the areas we were in at the time. The Land Rover coped well, and apart from the slight issue with boiling the brake fluid (which the driver had to change his pants afterwards!!) it did not need any major repairs. We have made some new friends which we hope to see again during our future travels, and have experienced parts of France, Italy and Switzerland which not many people have had the chance to explore. 

Botswana Recce

Botswana 28-4-13 We have arrived in Johannesburgh..!!! 4.30am the alarm was set and at 5am I met Karl at Norwich International Airport. After a quick check in we then had to be robbed by Norwich Airport and pay the ridiculous 'developement fee' of 10 GBP before we could continue through to security. Norwich Airport security was very strict, and we were almost naked before we could pass through the scanners.... Shoes off, belts off, jackets off watches off. There was several questions about the contents of our hand luggage before we finally were let through. We made a dash to the lounge area where I have a loyality card, which meant Karl and I could enjoy some 'refeshments' before the flight at 6.20am.

Short 35 min flight and we then landed in Amsterdam. Karl had booked 'assistance' with KLM, which meant that we were greeted by the ground staff and Karl was whisked away in his own personal mini bus and wheel chair. I managed to tag along as his 'official' helper..... :D. We then got driven directly to the next gate, which was handy as the arrival gate and our departure gate seemed opposite ends of the Airport! Once on the 777 Aircraft we settled down and got ready for the 10 hour flight. Karl found the seats rather uncomfortable and wished he could have upgraded..! During the flight we spoke to a local South African who told us what to watch out for and what to see.

Apparently Monkeys know how to open zips and Snakes will be seeking sun this time of year so will not be hiding. We arrived at Jo-Burgh and we met by the KLM ground staff again who whisked Karl away on a wheel chair. Two local guys sped Karl though the airport and to Passport control. At passport control the immigration officer looked at Karl's passport and told him he is refusing entry for Karl...... He did not beleive that Karl had no stamps in his passport, and did not believe that Karl had never been outside Europe. I noticed a little smerk come from the immigration officer, but Karl started to get rather concerned.... ;). After 5 mins of cheeky banter, the immigration officer stamped Karls passport and let him through. The officer then looked at my passport and fell about laughing at my hand written Indian work visa...... We are now at the Protea hotel and both Karl and I are tired from a long days travel, so its off to bed and up for breakfast tomorrow and get ready to meet the Bushlore team and our collect our hire 4x4.

Botswana 29-4-13 Waterburgh wilderness resort- After a great nights sleep in the hotel, Karl and I met for breakfast. The breakfast offered was fantastic and both Karl and I made the most of it as we knew that we were going to be heading into the Wilderness soon. At 8.50am Bushlore picked us up and we sped across Johannesburg for 45 mins to meet Clyde and Nicole, and to pick up our Defender for the trip. Our first impressions of Johannesburg, was that it looked a clean city with brilliant network of roads (which puts the UK to shame). Karl noticed that all the houses had 6ft high security barbed wire fences. Once we were at the Bushlore HQ, we did the necessary paperwork, and where then given an orientation of the vehicle. Its a 110 Defender with 2 x roof tents, split charge system, Internal water tank, Engel Fridge, High lift jack, Winch, Satellite phone, Garmin GPS with T4A mapping, 2 x gas bottles for cooking, Sand mats plus 4 large boxes which contain everything you could possibly need for cooking, breakdowns, Tyre repairs, recovery equipment etc.

We then were introduced to Nicole who gave us a briefing of our route. This included a pack with detailed maps, GPS positions and directions. We were then handed the keys and we were off..!! First stop was to stock up for lunch, evening meal and breakfast. We could not do a large shop as there are strict regulations for crossing the border into Botswana with regard to food. Several bottles of water were packed and we grabbed some Biltong to eat on the way. We set the Sat Nav for Waterbugh wilderness resort and proceeded to head out of Johannesburg. The route out went surprisingly well. Only once did we miss a turning but we soon back tracked and only lost 15 mins. The route North of the city went from busy multiple network of roads to one quiet dual carriage way with only the toll booths to stop your progress. Approx 3 hours later we turned off the tarmac and arrived at the Waterburgh main gate. 10 Kilometers later down a bumpy dirt road we then came across another gate for the resort. We panicked slightly as there was a padlock on the gate but after closer inspection the padlock was only holding a bit of wire onto the gate, so we quickly opened and proceeded through.

Up and down hills, through rivers on a dusty track we finally found the campsite. We were greeted with a huge smile from Les who is the campsite guide, and were shown around our accommodation. Karl elected to take the more upmarket camp, while I just fell in love with the Canvas house complete with a double bed, solar powered lighting and a bath..!!! Karl and I both have fully fitted outside kitchens, and I have an outside shower with hot and cold water, while Karl has a small pool and fire pit area. After settling into our camps, we decided to go on a quick drive around the site. Les jumped into our Land Rover to be our guide. He is from Zimbabwe and has not had a day off since December! He stays at the camp all the time, and does not have much to keep him entertained. However his love for the animals was obvious. Les took us through another small river crossing past a Dam and up to the highest point of the area which is marked on the map as great for sundowners.

We stopped at the top and spotted Wilderbeast and Zebra just below us. We had also seen Waterhog and Kudu on the way into the camp. We then proceeded down the hill again, and were just about to round a corner when Karl shouted Giraffe! Poking his head just over the tree tops was a young Giraffe. W e stopped and waited to see if he would move. He just stood there so we inched the Land Rover forward and around the corner and we delighted to see two youngsters and an Adult who was towering above the trees. Lez thought the youngsters were maybe about 4 years old. We just stayed still and they became curious and came a bit closer to us. Both Karl and I were snapping away with our cameras! We then decided to head back to camp as it was getting dark and start the fire ready to cook our steaks which were delicious. The night sky was ablaze with stars since there was no light pollution, and the sounds coming from the surrounding wildlife was incredible. Both Karl and I decided to head off to bed very early as it had been another busy day and we wanted to get up early since we will be crossing the border into Botswana tomorrow and heading for the Rhino Sanctuary and meeting Oyvind and Sheelah from Kapp2Cape. What a fantastic first day!

Botswana 30-4-13 Khama Rhino sanctuary We said goodbye to Lazeroth and headed for the Botswana border. The road was good and we managed to average about 100 km/hr most of the way. The only obstacles we the wild animals that roamed around the side of the road, which often wandered into the road without warning. Eventually we arrived at the Border and stopped our vehicle and got out to exit South Africa. The process we simple and painless. We then had to exit the vehicle from South Africa. This was relatively simple, and just needed another form and a small exit fee to be paid. Once we had exited South Africa we then drove 20M and had to then enter Botswana. This consisted of a quick vehicle check to ensure we were not carrying any restricted fruits, or meats.

Within 60 mins we were through border control and into Botswana. The next stage was to change money which conveniently there was several containers with the words money exchange just outside the border gates. We selected one of the containers and changed our money to the local Pula. We then set our sat nav to the Khama Rhino Sanctuary and sped off. However our speed was soon reduced and there were several pot holes in the road which were the size of bomb craters!! We then spent the next 30 kilometres weaving around all the massive pot holes. If you were to hit one of these pot holes at speed then you would do some serious damage to your vehicle! We noticed a small town near to the Khama Rhino Sanctuary called Palapye. We decided to stop there to load up with supplies. It was a nice little town with street sellers and local shops selling everything from bits of string to Onions. We also decided to change some more dollars and went into a Bureau De Change.

There were two ques inside and we just picked one que as there were no signs. After about 45 mins of queuing we got to the teller who promptly told us we were in the wrong que!! We apologised for being dumb tourists and nipped over to the other teller to change the money. Finally we were on our way to the Rhino Sanctuary! At 16.30 we pulled in to the campsite and registered. We were told that game driving was only allowed between sunrise and sunset, so we elected to make camp and cook our evening meal. Just as we had finished our evening meal a familiar voice was heard, and Oyvind from Kapp2Cape came walking out of the bush! Kapp2Cape and Global Adventures finally met after several months of planning. We grabbed our seats, torches and a bottle of brandy and headed over to Oyvind and Sheelahs camp. We sat around the fire sampling Oyvinds Venison sausages. He plan for the next morning was to get up VERY early to do a game drive before heading off. Karl was not very amused by this, as he was not use to crack of dawn starts.

We all bedded down at 9pm ready for tomorrows adventures!!!! Botswana 1-5-13 Kalahari I woke at 4.30am so decided to get up and have a shower and have breakfast as I knew this was going to be a long day. After a while Karl woke and was not amused at the early morning walk up call at 5.30am! Amazingly we managed to be all packed up and met Oyvind and Sheelah at 6.40am for our Game drive in the park. Thankfully Oyvind agreed to lead as we were still red eyed from the early morning and they had been out for a game drive already so had an idea where to go. We set off along sandy tracks and stopped at a few viewing points over the plains. Grembok, Wilderbeast, Springbok, Zebra and Giraffe were all spotted but the Rhino decided to stay hidden for that morning. We then headed out of the camp and back onto the road to make our way to the Kalahari. We had a long drive ahead, and made good progress but we had to stop at the National Park office to pay our park fees for the trip. On arrival we were surprised to find the office shut! It was a holiday, so a quick text to Bushlore confirmed we could pay our park fees at the gate. So off we went in search of the main gate for the Kalahari park.

All of a sudden my GPS told me to make a left turn, which I did onto a sandy track. The GPS then said 80 KM to the campsite.!!!! The main gate was 40KM along the track! We bumped and swayed and rattled down this track for ages getting deeper and deeper into the Kalahari. Finally we found the main gate and paid our fees and headed off in search of our first campsite. The tracks we very rough and corrugated with the odd deep sandy section. We finally found our campsite but by this time the sun had set so we had to make camp in the dark. However once we had settled down, we looked up at the sky and were amazed with the night sky!

It was incredible! We all bedded down at 9pm as we were all shattered. However it was a strange feeling being tucked up in the roof tent 80Km deep into the Kalahari. This is not somewhere that you can call to get help quickly! I fell asleep wondering what animals might be sniffing around our tent during the night.. Botswana 2-5-13 Kalahari night 2 I woke at about 7am, and had a fantastic nights sleep!! Oyvind and Sheelah had already packed up and were heading out for an early morning game drive. Oyvind had looked around the camp that morning and had confirmed nothing had been sniffing around our tent. We then packed up camp and also headed out at around 8.30am. Our next nights stop was 30 Km further into the Kalahari! We bumped and bounced along the tracks and spotted all sorts of animals. Every so often we would stop and scan the horizon with our binoculars but sometimes the animals would burst out of the bush and run in front of the Land Rover. We found our 2nd campsite at around 12pm, so Karl and I elected to head even deeper into the Kalahari and spent the next 3 hours going a further 30Km.

We then returned to the campsite and wanted to relax but there was a swarm of bees which kept attacking Karl and I so we jumped back into the Land Rover and went for another drive. We returned to camp later to find the bees had gone. However we were sharing our camp with a family of ground squirrels which we watched for ages, until all of a sudden we heard a noise and out of the bush came a fox with one of the ground squirrels in it mouth.

It ran right through our campsite and did not seem bothered we were there. Oyvind and Sheelah made a fantastic stew and we sat and listened to the noises in the night and wondered at the stars. Somethng was making a lot of noise close to our tent while we were cooking but nobody really knew what it was.. I have never been in a place so remote. Its an amazing experience being somewhere so distant from anything. This is one nights camping I shall never forget..!!!!! Botswana 3-5-13 Khamuga campsite Another 5 am start as we had to do the long drive out of the Kalahari. When we left we backtracked most of the way, but this time we took a slightly different route before we got to the main gate. We were bouncing along the sandy tracks looking out for all the usual animals when suddenly Karl shouted Blood hell Lions..!! Right in the middle of the track were two massive male lions who were sunbathing themselves on the track.

As they spotted us they got up and slowly walked into the bush. We were absolutely buzzing with excitement and were chatting about the experience as we moved off then again Karl shouted Lions again. Right in the middle of the track was another male lion walking right towards us!!! The adrenaline was pumping fast now as he got closer, and we quickly decided to wind the windows up!! The Lion then stopped and took one look at us and then walked off into the bush. We moved forward to see if we could see where he went and had the fight of our lives when we spotted him right beside the track no more than 2ft away from the Land Rover. He was just lying down licking himself and yawning. His eyes looked right at us which is a sight I will never forget.!!!

After that experience we were like little kids and were smiling and giggling all the way back to the main gate. We finally left the Kalahari and headed to Khamuga Campsite. A short drive along a tarmac road and then we headed off onto a dirt track and then onto a ferry..! The ferry can only be described as a true African style ferry! See the photos for what I mean! We arrived at Khamuga and started to sort the Land Rover out as the back was in rather a mess. However the back door lock had jammed and we could not get into the back of the Land Rover. This meant we also could not get any of our camping kitchen equipment out! A tin of corn beef it was for tea! A quick call to Bushlore and we were booked into Land Rover garage in Maun tomorrow to get it sorted. We then headed off for a game drive and we astonished at the amount of Elephants all around the park!

They were everywhere and only a few meters from the Land Rover. We spent 3 hours driving in deep sandy tracks making sure not to get stuck, and stopping every 5 mins to photo the many Elephants who were either bathing, drinking or giving themselves a mud bath. What a fantastic day! Lions in the morning, with loads of Elephants in the afternoon! Can it get much better then this???!!!!!!! Botswana 4-5-13 Thamalakane river lodge Another 6am start and we were off through the National Park and we had decided to exit through the North Gate. For about 2 hours we bumped and swayed down deep sandy tracks which were power sapping. Low range diff lock was needed and a heavy right foot to battle through the tracks. Not much game was seen this morning but after yesterday no one was really bothered as it would be hard to top yesterdays sightings. We stopped at the North gate and signed out of the park and headed for Maun.

Maun is a big town and is the last place to stock up before heading further north. We stopped at Maun and got provisions for 5 days as we will not see civilization for 5 days after today. Fuel was topped up to the max and we then headed off to Land Rover at Maun to get our back door fixed. The lock had jammed shut and since all the cooking equipment was in a storage drawer at the back then we could not cook anything unless we got the back door open. Charles at Land Rover Maun worked all afternoon to fix our back door. We then headed off to the Thamalakane Lodge and what a shock we got when we arrived! What a fantastic place!!! Right on the rivers edge and signs around saying beware of the Hippos and Crocodiles! The lodges were just luxury and were a welcome rest from the roof tents! We showered and got some washing done then headed straight to the bar! I think we will sleep well tonight after our steak beside the river washed down with a few of the local brews!

Botswana 5-5-13 Third Bridge After a fantastic night we set off for Third Bridge campsite at Moremi. If you thought that we would be crossing 3 well constructed bridges you would be wrong! One thing I have learnt from this trip is never to rely solely on your GPS! We have had a couple of occasions that the GPS co-ordinates that were supplied were not quite accurate! Oyvind and Sheelah had great fun in watching Karl and I blindly follow the GPS and then watch us scratch our heads when we did not end up where we thought! A good old paper map, is always good to refer to, and we shall not blindly follow the GPS anymore! Our GPS stated that the Third Bridge campsite was 9.9Km from the Main gate. It was actually more like 38Km!!!! I was glad I took a second GPS so to cross reference. We set off to find our campsite and within 100 Meters of the main gate were 3 Giraffe (Now becoming rather common!!) The tracks were deep with sand and diff lock was needed and sometimes low range, and a heavy right foot to power through some of the sections. We then rounded a corner and spotted a herd of Elephants drinking at a water hole.

We stopped and watched them for 10 mins until they started to walk off. We watched which direction they were going and noticed that they would be walking right across our track. We edged closer and within a few minutes we watched as the first Elephant gingerly put his foot onto the track to cross. He seemed to stop and look at us and was checking to see if we were ok, and he could cross. He stepped out and very soon was followed by about 15 other Elephants, with some baby calfs following. We were about to head off when half of the herd then crossed back over to the other side. Now we had a dilemma!!! To proceed meant driving through the middle of the herd, but if we sat there we could have been there all day waiting for them to move, as we still had 30 Km to go to our campsite. We very slowly edged forward and kept the engine revs down.

As we got in the middle of the herd one Elephant on each side of the track spun round and glared at us. To say that Karl and I were concerned was an understatement! We were cra**ing ourselves! Thankfully the two Elephants just watched us drive past, and didnt show any signs of charging. With a wipe of our brows we were though. We bounced and bucked and came to the First bridge which we could avoid as there was a track past it. The second bridge was collapsed so we managed to avoid that one as well. We did not need to go over Third Bridge as our campsite was in front of Third Bridge, but I think we will need to go over that in a couple of days. There is no way around Third bridge from what I can see, and the construction of all the bridges is old tree trunks and nothing else.! We arrived at the camp at 2pm, so for the first time of the trip, we could relax in the afternoon. We had Papaya and Lime for lunch, but then discussed the fact we had lime in the rubbish bin which could attract Elephants! The Lime was quickly disposed of, as we had enough close encounters with Elephants today! For the first time we had a relaxing afternoon and we all decided not to go for a game drive and just relax.

Oyvind spotted some Hippos in the river right beside our campsite and we could hear them grunting and snorting. Karl elected to cook some stew, as he enjoyed the stew that Oyvind and Sheelah made in the Kalahari, so we set about preparing the food. The fire was lit, and Karls stew was soon bubbling over the fire. The Hippos kept on grunting and we also heard Hyenas in the distance. The sun went down and the stars came alive in the African sky once again. As we sat around the fire we also heard the roar of Lions. It was a surreal experience sitting around the fire very deep inside the Okavango Delta listening to Hippo, Hyena and Lion as we eat Karlss stew! After tea I elected to do the washing up, but there was no lights at the toilets, and I could hear rustling in the bushes, so I decided to do the washing up in the morning when it was light.!!! We went to bed at the usual late time of 9pm, and I sat in my tent listening to the Hippos grunting and snorting and splashing about, the Hyenas crying and the Lions roaring, the frogs calling, the crickets chirping, plus I had the other pleasure of Karl snoring!!!! This would not be a quiet night in the bush!!

After a fantastic night we set off for Third Bridge campsite at Moremi. If you thought that we would be crossing 3 well constructed bridges you would be wrong! One thing I have learnt from this trip is never to rely solely on your GPS! We have had a couple of occasions that the GPS co-ordinates that were supplied were not quite accurate! Oyvind and Sheelah had great fun in watching Karl and I blindly follow the GPS and then watch us scratch our heads when we did not end up where we thought! A good old paper map, is always good to refer to, and we shall not blindly follow the GPS anymore! Our GPS stated that the Third Bridge campsite was 9.9Km from the Main gate. It was actually more like 38Km!!!! I was glad I took a second GPS so to cross reference. We set off to find our campsite and within 100 Meters of the main gate were 3 Giraffe (Now becoming rather common!!) The tracks were deep with sand and diff lock was needed and sometimes low range, and a heavy right foot to power through some of the sections. We then rounded a corner and spotted a herd of Elephants drinking at a water hole. We stopped and watched them for 10 mins until they started to walk off.

We watched which direction they were going and noticed that they would be walking right across our track. We edged closer and within a few minutes we watched as the first Elephant gingerly put his foot onto the track to cross. He seemed to stop and look at us and was checking to see if we were ok, and he could cross. He stepped out and very soon was followed by about 15 other Elephants, with some baby calfs following. We were about to head off when half of the herd then crossed back over to the other side. Now we had a dilemma!!! To proceed meant driving through the middle of the herd, but if we sat there we could have been there all day waiting for them to move, as we still had 30 Km to go to our campsite. We very slowly edged forward and kept the engine revs down. As we got in the middle of the herd one Elephant on each side of the track spun round and glared at us. To say that Karl and I were concerned was an understatement!

We were cra**ing ourselves! Thankfully the two Elephants just watched us drive past, and didnt show any signs of charging. With a wipe of our brows we were though. We bounced and bucked and came to the First bridge which we could avoid as there was a track past it. The second bridge was collapsed so we managed to avoid that one as well. We did not need to go over Third Bridge as our campsite was in front of Third Bridge, but I think we will need to go over that in a couple of days. There is no way around Third bridge from what I can see, and the construction of all the bridges is old tree trunks and nothing else.! We arrived at the camp at 2pm, so for the first time of the trip, we could relax in the afternoon. We had Papaya and Lime for lunch, but then discussed the fact we had lime in the rubbish bin which could attract Elephants! The Lime was quickly disposed of, as we had enough close encounters with Elephants today! For the first time we had a relaxing afternoon and we all decided not to go for a game drive and just relax. Oyvind spotted some Hippos in the river right beside our campsite and we could hear them grunting and snorting. Karl elected to cook some stew, as he enjoyed the stew that Oyvind and Sheelah made in the Kalahari, so we set about preparing the food.

The fire was lit, and Karls stew was soon bubbling over the fire. The Hippos kept on grunting and we also heard Hyenas in the distance. The sun went down and the stars came alive in the African sky once again. As we sat around the fire we also heard the roar of Lions. It was a surreal experience sitting around the fire very deep inside the Okavango Delta listening to Hippo, Hyena and Lion as we eat Karlss stew! After tea I elected to do the washing up, but there was no lights at the toilets, and I could hear rustling in the bushes, so I decided to do the washing up in the morning when it was light.!!! We went to bed at the usual late time of 9pm, and I sat in my tent listening to the Hippos grunting and snorting and splashing about, the Hyenas crying and the Lions roaring, the frogs calling, the crickets chirping, plus I had the other pleasure of Karl snoring!!!! This would not be a quiet night in the bush!! After a fantastic night we set off for Third Bridge campsite at Moremi. 

If you thought that we would be crossing 3 well constructed bridges you would be wrong! One thing I have learnt from this trip is never to rely solely on your GPS! We have had a couple of occasions that the GPS co-ordinates that were supplied were not quite accurate! Oyvind and Sheelah had great fun in watching Karl and I blindly follow the GPS and then watch us scratch our heads when we did not end up where we thought! A good old paper map, is always good to refer to, and we shall not blindly follow the GPS anymore! Our GPS stated that the Third Bridge campsite was 9.9Km from the Main gate. It was actually more like 38Km!!!! I was glad I took a second GPS so to cross reference. We set off to find our campsite and within 100 Meters of the main gate were 3 Giraffe (Now becoming rather common!!) The tracks were deep with sand and diff lock was needed and sometimes low range, and a heavy right foot to power through some of the sections. We then rounded a corner and spotted a herd of Elephants drinking at a water hole. We stopped and watched them for 10 mins until they started to walk off. We watched which direction they were going and noticed that they would be walking right across our track.

We edged closer and within a few minutes we watched as the first Elephant gingerly put his foot onto the track to cross. He seemed to stop and look at us and was checking to see if we were ok, and he could cross. He stepped out and very soon was followed by about 15 other Elephants, with some baby calfs following. We were about to head off when half of the herd then crossed back over to the other side. Now we had a dilemma!!! To proceed meant driving through the middle of the herd, but if we sat there we could have been there all day waiting for them to move, as we still had 30 Km to go to our campsite. We very slowly edged forward and kept the engine revs down. As we got in the middle of the herd one Elephant on each side of the track spun round and glared at us. To say that Karl and I were concerned was an understatement! We were cra**ing ourselves!

Thankfully the two Elephants just watched us drive past, and didnt show any signs of charging. With a wipe of our brows we were though. We bounced and bucked and came to the First bridge which we could avoid as there was a track past it. The second bridge was collapsed so we managed to avoid that one as well. We did not need to go over Third Bridge as our campsite was in front of Third Bridge, but I think we will need to go over that in a couple of days. There is no way around Third bridge from what I can see, and the construction of all the bridges is old tree trunks and nothing else.! We arrived at the camp at 2pm, so for the first time of the trip, we could relax in the afternoon. We had Papaya and Lime for lunch, but then discussed the fact we had lime in the rubbish bin which could attract Elephants! The Lime was quickly disposed of, as we had enough close encounters with Elephants today! For the first time we had a relaxing afternoon and we all decided not to go for a game drive and just relax. Oyvind spotted some Hippos in the river right beside our campsite and we could hear them grunting and snorting.

Karl elected to cook some stew, as he enjoyed the stew that Oyvind and Sheelah made in the Kalahari, so we set about preparing the food. The fire was lit, and Karls stew was soon bubbling over the fire. The Hippos kept on grunting and we also heard Hyenas in the distance. The sun went down and the stars came alive in the African sky once again. As we sat around the fire we also heard the roar of Lions. It was a surreal experience sitting around the fire very deep inside the Okavango Delta listening to Hippo, Hyena and Lion as we eat Karlss stew! After tea I elected to do the washing up, but there was no lights at the toilets, and I could hear rustling in the bushes, so I decided to do the washing up in the morning when it was light.!!! We went to bed at the usual late time of 9pm, and I sat in my tent listening to the Hippos grunting and snorting and splashing about, the Hyenas crying and the Lions roaring, the frogs calling, the crickets chirping, plus I had the other pleasure of Karl snoring!!!! This would not be a quiet night in the bush!! After a fantastic night we set off for Third Bridge campsite at Moremi. If you thought that we would be crossing 3 well constructed bridges you would be wrong! One thing I have learnt from this trip is never to rely solely on your GPS! We have had a couple of occasions that the GPS co-ordinates that were supplied were not quite accurate! Oyvind and Sheelah had great fun in watching Karl and I blindly follow the GPS and then watch us scratch our heads when we did not end up where we thought! A good old paper map, is always good to refer to, and we shall not blindly follow the GPS anymore! Our GPS stated that the Third Bridge campsite was 9.9Km from the Main gate.

It was actually more like 38Km!!!! I was glad I took a second GPS so to cross reference. We set off to find our campsite and within 100 Meters of the main gate were 3 Giraffe (Now becoming rather common!!) The tracks were deep with sand and diff lock was needed and sometimes low range, and a heavy right foot to power through some of the sections. We then rounded a corner and spotted a herd of Elephants drinking at a water hole. We stopped and watched them for 10 mins until they started to walk off. We watched which direction they were going and noticed that they would be walking right across our track. We edged closer and within a few minutes we watched as the first Elephant gingerly put his foot onto the track to cross. He seemed to stop and look at us and was checking to see if we were ok, and he could cross. He stepped out and very soon was followed by about 15 other Elephants, with some baby calfs following. We were about to head off when half of the herd then crossed back over to the other side. Now we had a dilemma!!!

To proceed meant driving through the middle of the herd, but if we sat there we could have been there all day waiting for them to move, as we still had 30 Km to go to our campsite. We very slowly edged forward and kept the engine revs down. As we got in the middle of the herd one Elephant on each side of the track spun round and glared at us. To say that Karl and I were concerned was an understatement! We were cra**ing ourselves! Thankfully the two Elephants just watched us drive past, and didnt show any signs of charging. With a wipe of our brows we were though. We bounced and bucked and came to the First bridge which we could avoid as there was a track past it. The second bridge was collapsed so we managed to avoid that one as well. We did not need to go over Third Bridge as our campsite was in front of Third Bridge, but I think we will need to go over that in a couple of days. There is no way around Third bridge from what I can see, and the construction of all the bridges is old tree trunks and nothing else.!

We arrived at the camp at 2pm, so for the first time of the trip, we could relax in the afternoon. We had Papaya and Lime for lunch, but then discussed the fact we had lime in the rubbish bin which could attract Elephants! The Lime was quickly disposed of, as we had enough close encounters with Elephants today! For the first time we had a relaxing afternoon and we all decided not to go for a game drive and just relax. Oyvind spotted some Hippos in the river right beside our campsite and we could hear them grunting and snorting. Karl elected to cook some stew, as he enjoyed the stew that Oyvind and Sheelah made in the Kalahari, so we set about preparing the food. The fire was lit, and Karls stew was soon bubbling over the fire. The Hippos kept on grunting and we also heard Hyenas in the distance. The sun went down and the stars came alive in the African sky once again. As we sat around the fire we also heard the roar of Lions. It was a surreal experience sitting around the fire very deep inside the Okavango Delta listening to Hippo, Hyena and Lion as we eat Karlss stew! After tea I elected to do the washing up, but there was no lights at the toilets, and I could hear rustling in the bushes, so I decided to do the washing up in the morning when it was light.!!!

We went to bed at the usual late time of 9pm, and I sat in my tent listening to the Hippos grunting and snorting and splashing about, the Hyenas crying and the Lions roaring, the frogs calling, the crickets chirping, plus I had the other pleasure of Karl snoring!!!! This would not be a quiet night in the bush!! After a fantastic night we set off for Third Bridge campsite at Moremi. If you thought that we would be crossing 3 well constructed bridges you would be wrong! One thing I have learnt from this trip is never to rely solely on your GPS! We have had a couple of occasions that the GPS co-ordinates that were supplied were not quite accurate! Oyvind and Sheelah had great fun in watching Karl and I blindly follow the GPS and then watch us scratch our heads when we did not end up where we thought! A good old paper map, is always good to refer to, and we shall not blindly follow the GPS anymore! Our GPS stated that the Third Bridge campsite was 9.9Km from the Main gate. It was actually more like 38Km!!!! I was glad I took a second GPS so to cross reference. We set off to find our campsite and within 100 Meters of the main gate were 3 Giraffe (Now becoming rather common!!) The tracks were deep with sand and diff lock was needed and sometimes low range, and a heavy right foot to power through some of the sections.

We then rounded a corner and spotted a herd of Elephants drinking at a water hole. We stopped and watched them for 10 mins until they started to walk off. We watched which direction they were going and noticed that they would be walking right across our track. We edged closer and within a few minutes we watched as the first Elephant gingerly put his foot onto the track to cross. He seemed to stop and look at us and was checking to see if we were ok, and he could cross. He stepped out and very soon was followed by about 15 other Elephants, with some baby calfs following. We were about to head off when half of the herd then crossed back over to the other side. Now we had a dilemma!!! To proceed meant driving through the middle of the herd, but if we sat there we could have been there all day waiting for them to move, as we still had 30 Km to go to our campsite. We very slowly edged forward and kept the engine revs down. As we got in the middle of the herd one Elephant on each side of the track spun round and glared at us. To say that Karl and I were concerned was an understatement! We were cra**ing ourselves! Thankfully the two Elephants just watched us drive past, and didnt show any signs of charging. With a wipe of our brows we were though. We bounced and bucked and came to the First bridge which we could avoid as there was a track past it.

The second bridge was collapsed so we managed to avoid that one as well. We did not need to go over Third Bridge as our campsite was in front of Third Bridge, but I think we will need to go over that in a couple of days. There is no way around Third bridge from what I can see, and the construction of all the bridges is old tree trunks and nothing else.! We arrived at the camp at 2pm, so for the first time of the trip, we could relax in the afternoon. We had Papaya and Lime for lunch, but then discussed the fact we had lime in the rubbish bin which could attract Elephants! The Lime was quickly disposed of, as we had enough close encounters with Elephants today! For the first time we had a relaxing afternoon and we all decided not to go for a game drive and just relax. Oyvind spotted some Hippos in the river right beside our campsite and we could hear them grunting and snorting. Karl elected to cook some stew, as he enjoyed the stew that Oyvind and Sheelah made in the Kalahari, so we set about preparing the food. The fire was lit, and Karls stew was soon bubbling over the fire. The Hippos kept on grunting and we also heard Hyenas in the distance.

The sun went down and the stars came alive in the African sky once again. As we sat around the fire we also heard the roar of Lions. It was a surreal experience sitting around the fire very deep inside the Okavango Delta listening to Hippo, Hyena and Lion as we eat Karlss stew! After tea I elected to do the washing up, but there was no lights at the toilets, and I could hear rustling in the bushes, so I decided to do the washing up in the morning when it was light.!!! We went to bed at the usual late time of 9pm, and I sat in my tent listening to the Hippos grunting and snorting and splashing about, the Hyenas crying and the Lions roaring, the frogs calling, the crickets chirping, plus I had the other pleasure of Karl snoring!!!! This would not be a quiet night in the bush!! Botswana 6-5-13 Moroko trip (Third Bridge) I woke at 6.30am and had one of the best sleeps in ages! We were booked on a traditional canoe trip up the Okavango Delta at 10am. We looked at my Botswana book to see what type of canoe it would be and Karl had a heart attack as he realised that he was about to be sat in an old canoe and taken deep up the Okavango river where Crocodiles and Hippos might be! To get to the boat station took about 90 mins through various types of terrain and low box and diff lock needed all the time.We arrived at the boat station and the first thing that was thrust into our hands was a indemnity form! So at least if we got eaten by Crocodiles then the National Park would not be liable! We were taken up the river for about an hour where the local guide told us about the wildlife. It was so peaceful just floating up the river.

I could not help think of my Father when we were on this trip up the river as I knew he would have loved it. The water was very clear and we could see the bottom most of the time. Each side of the river was high reeds and the water was covered in water Lillys After an hour we turned around and drifted back to the start. It was a fantastic experience which I will never forget. To be so deep inside the Okavango Delta being taken up the Crocodile infested river in a Canoe was amazing!!!! We returned to camp by driving the second half of a loop and Karl enjoyed driving back. The track twisted and turned, and had some deep sandy sections.

Toubkal Unguided

Morocco has a lot to offer a traveller, particularly if theyve a head for heights. Jbel Toubkal, the highpoint of the Atlas Mountain Range, is one of the top destinations for many. More often than not ascents are undertaken with organised trekking companies and while this can be a good option for some, what if you want to go it alone?

I often see treks advertised to mesmerising destinations, enticing me to sign up to a tour and thought to myself I would love to have a go if I had the disposable income, but what if I cut out the middle man and plan my trip independently. Toubkal would be my first chance to test my theory and see if I have what it takes to go it alone. With any adventure, preparation and research are key. Fortunately these days the internet is a wealth of information, if you know where to look. I, of course, didnt know where to look, so Google it was. I quickly found that when you enter Toubkal in to search engine it spits out pages upon pages of adventure companies offering guided trek packages. Its easy to see why there is such an abundance of professionals offering their services. At 4,167m, Toubkal is the highest point of North Africa, theres no real bureaucracy associated with a visit and its close proximity to Europe means the lure of this mountain can be irresistible for hikers and for big business.

In an attempt to not contribute to this big business I wanted to summit Toubkal without the safety net, no support or comforts. Not just because I think I can do it at a fraction of the cost but because theres a greater sense of adventure to be had attempting this off my own back. After a few days of reading some of those elusive personal online blogs and tour operators schedules, I begin to gauge a feel for my upcoming trip and come up with my very own three day itinerary: Day 1) Arrive at Marrakesh Airport to head directly to the village of Imlil in the Atlas Mountains. Day 2) Trek from Imlil to the refuge. Day 3) Trek from the refuge to summit and then back to Imlil for a transfer to Marrakesh. Now I have an idea of what I want to achieve its time for the practicalities. I choose a bank holiday weekend to arrive in Morocco (so less time to take off work) and begin to make preparations. Its handy that both of the two refuges on the mountain are happy to answer any questions via email. I bombard them with questions. Will you be open? Do I need a reservation? How much will a night cost? Shall I bring a sleeping bag? How do I get to Imlil from the airport? A good idea is to also include a plan of what you want to do. That way they should be able to advise and offer any services you may need. Their replies reach my inbox within a couple of days. Each refuge offers to organise everything for me at a much lower price than the adventure companies.

It seems organising a summit attempt to Toubkal is a lot simpler then I expect it to be (or want it to be, really). Both offer pick-ups from the airport, accommodation in Imlil (or Aroumed, the next village along) plus food, guides, donkeys and accommodation in Marrakesh. The elder of the two is the CAF (Club Alpine Francis) Toubkal Refuge, sometimes still referred to by its previous name, Neltner. Then theres the newer and locally owned Les Mouflons Refuge. With all this in mind deciding which one to stay in is quite difficult. Theres really little in it; I suspect you cant go too wrong with either. Ultimately it will be down to price and my ability to haggle. Before I finally commit I turn to my circle of friends to see who would like to journey to the top of North Africa with me. Of course whilst I do enjoy their company I must admit my ulterior motive: as a large group well likely secure group discounts making this adventure more affordable for everyone. So in playing tour operator its not long before theres a total of ten in our party. With final numbers confirmed we do indeed secure a reasonable offer from Les Mouflons. Payment will be in local cash on arrival. Les Mouflons agree to organise our transfer and accommodation (half board) in Imlil. I politely decline their offer of guides and mules or donkeys. Instead our plan is to travel light, decant once at Imlil - leaving some baggage at our guest house - and then once more the next day at the refuge. Well be able to pick up our gear on the return journey.

After weeks of planning the day of landing at Marrakesh Airport has arrived. With customs cleared and baggage collected its straight to the cash points to withdraw enough local currency to pay for our trip, plus some extra just in case. We find an older man holding up a sign for Les Mouflons Refuge and within ten minutes were in a white minibus heading for the Atlas Mountains. Imlil is only 70km away from Marrakesh but it can take over ninety minutes to get there due to the winding roads into the mountain range. Imlil is a popular destination for hikers so theres plenty of opportunity to buy supplies, chocolate bars and water for the hike.

This is where we are dropped off at a lovely Moroccan guest house (which works in partnership with the refuge) in time for evening tea. Were at 1,740 metres above sea level as we watch the sun disappear behind the valley walls, sipping on our mint tea poured by our host, later followed by traditional Moroccan chicken couscous. Its an early night, for tomorrow the hard work begins. As we wake up in the morning at 8am theres a substantial breakfast waiting for us on the terrace. Within an hour we are ready to leave. Weve decanted and placed our larger bags in storage and head out towards Toubkal. We make our way to the start of the official trail through a forested section of Imlil with a few short switchbacks until we reach a track road above us hugging the valley wall. Then its about a kilometre along this track past Aroumed (the alternative to staying in Imlil for many visitors).

From here is a short walk over a rock field which looks like a very wide dry river bed before we arrive at the start of the official trail. The trail is clearly defined and non-technical, following the left side of the Isougouane Valley. Its dry and dusty but the base of the valley is very green presumably from all the melt water. Its still early but the temperature is rising quickly. After a few minutes were drenched in sweat. Birds of prey circle high above, dark rocky ridges covered in patches of snow all to a backdrop of bright blue skies: its definitely worth the hard work, truly stunning. This section of the hike should take between four and five hours normally. Along our narrow route we frequently have to give way to passing donkeys carrying luggage and supplies for other hikers. I conceded that after a few hours I begin to question my idea of not hiring a couple of mules or donkeys for our gear. However, as we venture through the valley we do pass a handful of shacks selling freshly squeezed OJ, and bottle drinks cooled by melt water from the mountains.

One of the great aspects of this trek is that there is no rush to get anywhere. Theres not much point reaching the refuge early and with our 9am departure there is plenty of time before night fall. As the afternoon sun heats up the valley it becomes increasingly hot, even at our altitude of over 2000 meters. It doesnt bear thinking how hot it will be in Marrakesh Later were told +40 degrees Celsius is normal.Ahead are some buildings. As we approach were greeted by some friendly locals who tell us this is the settlement of Sidi Chamharouch. At its centre is a huge, white painted boulder though from a distance it looks like a giant snowball. This is the last populated area before the refuges. We receive a few waves, smiles and offers to come visit the shop but we polity refuse and carry on. Then its over a bridge facing a waterfall and on to a handful of switch backs where we gain altitude substantially compared to the last couple of hours. Personally I hate switchbacks but they arent too repetitive. Its not long before were back to a gradual rock track. The trail gets narrower and as well as more rocky here though there are still large patches of grass being grazed by mountain goats. The difference in temperature is now noticeable and our sweat begins to feel really cold after only a few minutes of rest. The elevation also means the air is thinner and a few of our party begin to complain of headaches.

The pace slows and moral declines. The route snakes deeper and deeper into the Atlas Mountains, continually obscuring a straight line of sight to our destination. As we make our way past each bend our hopes of seeing the refuges in the distance spike then fade away. Its another hour and half before the welcome sight of the Refuges, though once in sight they continually disappear and reappear as the route drops and rises. Were still about 30 minutes away. At 3,200 meters we arrive at the refuge. Its a clich to say its a sight for sore eyes, but its true. The last few hours have been hard going. By now I have a splitting headache. All I want to do is lay down with a bottle of cola; fortunately the refuge has a well stocked tuck shop. The refuge is a grand building, but quite dark inside. The thick walls and a few small windows isolate it from the harsh winter but in the warmer months they keep any heat out. Even now in the summer we witness a hail storm just before dinner. The refuge is not warm but perhaps the exhaustion is making us all feel it even more. Theres a communal room with a stove radiating heat where a handful of other hikers are resting their feet.

We join them, exchanging stories and looking for someone whos been at the summit so they can tell us what awaits. One couple tell us its incredibly difficult but then again another group tell us they found it easier than the hike up to the refuge, so were still pretty much in the dark as to know what to expect. We sit down for our 7pm dinner in the nicely heated dining room for some turkey chops. I ask our group if anyone noticed any turkeys around. Its a unanimous no. All supplies here must make the long journey to the refuge by donkey from Imlil. After dinner its not long before we head to our dormitory, where again we decant to yet smaller packs. Electricity only runs for a few hours in the evening with lights out at about 10.30pm. Be warned, a torch is handy should midnight visits to the toilets be required. The night in the refuge is cold. I wish I had brought my sleeping bag but the refuges blankets have to suffice. Falling asleep at 3,200metes is a somewhat peculiar experience as you really have the time and absolute silence to notice how ones breathing is different, unfamiliar from what youve become use to hearing when falling asleep back home. Our alarms go at 5.30am for our 6am breakfast provided by the refuge; again were cold and looking forward to a glass of hot mint tea to warm us up.

There are showers but I'm convinced they'd be too cold to stomach, beside Im sure after five minutes out the door Ill have sweated enough to negate the purpose of a shower. Instantly the morning trek feels completely different from the ground we've covered so far. Just past the refuge we bridge a fast-flowing stream and are then faced with a steep and loose scree slope. This is the southern cwm, starting off at an approximately 45 degree angle. The route isnt obvious, only red markers painted on the rock and occasional graffiti give an indication which way to head upwards. With each step we hear rocks rolling downward. The morning sun remains hidden behind the surrounding peaks; if it weren't for the physical exertion wed probably be quite cold. Its easy to go off route here; in fact we encountered plenty of people telling us they'd had to double back as they went in the wrong direction. This same mistake was made by the faster members of our team who pushed further ahead only to realise they were on wrong side of the cwm meaning a slow traverse side track back on route. Though theyre only about 100m away it takes an hour before we are reunited.

The south cwm eventually begins to level out with only boulders covered in ice left to negotiate. By now were within the snowline. Though much of the snow has melted away frozen patches the size of football fields still need to be crossed. Fortunately we are able to follow well-trodden footprints made in the proceeding days. At times three point contact is needed and the snow is frozen solid. If youre not wearing gloves your hands feel the burn. Reaching then end of the cwm is mentally rewarding and we can afford ourselves a short break to take in the view. This is the first time weve been able to see beyond the mountain range, south into the Sahara. From here on its a left turn to face a false peak, up its loose scree for about twenty minutes where you can finally see the well-recognised metal pyramid marker of the summit of Jbel Toubkal in the distance. Theres little altitude to gain from here as we traverse a ridge before making it to that small plateau at the top of North Africa.

By now the low level of oxygen at his altitude has taken its toll on all 10 of us (before now Ive only reached 3718 Meters). Everyone complains of throbbing headaches, were all out of breath as we slowly make our way to the summit marker. Everything seems more difficult than it needs to be and our stride begins to resemble that of zombies rather than hikers. Staying the night at the refuge is meant to help with acclimatisation. If wed decided the press on to attempt the summit in one day, then theres no telling how worse we could feel, or worse what mistakes or misjudgements could creep in. The sights at the peak are spectacular, despite a haze along the horizon you can see far into the flat lands of the Sahara. Theres a real sense of camaraderie, we congratulate each other, theres even an odd tear from some of the group. The return is along the same route, the descent on the scree means you can almost ride the smaller rocks down as if on a surf board. And the snow? Well thats fun too. We revert to our childlike selves as we simply sit and ride down on our bums, feeling better with every inch we descend as more oxygen hits our lungs. T

heres a short break at the refuge before we make our way back down to Imlil, and then to Marrakesh, fourteen hours after we awoke, eagerly awaiting a traditional Hamam the next morning. Toubkal has been a remarkable achievement; weve all conquer our hardest trekking challenge yet. In addition to physical efforts, its the planning process which has really opened my eyes, removing perceived barriers by simply questioning the need for an adventure company book your trip. I can help wonder what other adventures Ill soon be planning which could otherwise be financially out of reach. Need to know When to go? Toubkal can be summited all year round however its between May to September if youre after a non-technical trek. How to get there? Marrakesh Menara Airport is well served by low-cost and national carriers. Imlil is about 70km from Marrakesh (90mins by road).

Taxis are plentiful, but be sure to negotiate a price beforehand. Either refuge (or accommodation in Imlil) will offer to organise a transfer. Where to stay? On the mountain there are two refuges to choose from. The village of Imlil has plenty of choice. We worked with Les Mouflons Refuge but this website highlights other options:www.imlil.org/Toubkal How Hard? During the summer its not technically difficult but a decent amount of fitness is required. The distance, heat/cold and the altitude are factors that youll need to contend with on this trek. Winter ascents should be considered a complete different challenge and experience, using crampons and ice axe is advised. If youre a novice then perhaps this is the time to use a guide or sign up to a tour. Who to go with? The internet is full of companies offering their services but if you're interested in a no-nonsense budget summer adventure then you can trek independently.

Contact one or the two refuges for specific info. By working directly the Les Mouflons Refuge this adventure cost us less than half the price of the cheapest advertised organised trip found online.

www.doinitonline.com"

Swiss Alpine Passes

In the Summer of 2012 I undertook a solo walk across the Swiss Alps, roughly following the Alpine Pass Route and camping along the way. Overall, from Sargans to Geneva, it took about 3 weeks, with around 15 days solid walking and a few rest days when I found a particularly nice spot. Route: Sargans - Weistannen - Elm - Linthal - Brusti - Blackenalp - Engslenalp - Meiringen - First - Wengen - Griesalp - Kandersteg - Adelboden - Lenk (via Simmenfalle) - Gsteig - Col des Mosses - Montreaux - Lausanne - Geneva

Long distance trekking: Aachen - Budapest

Individual hike, over a period of 3 months, from Aachen (at the Dutch - German border) to Budapest. Fully self-sufficient, wild camping, in what can be called one of the worse years for such an undertaking: a very long winter (March to half April 2013) and then an extremely rainy spring (half April until the beginning of June 2013). In short, the trip started at the Dutch-German border in the (volcanic) hills of the Eifel down to the city of Trier (the Eifelsteig). From there through the higher hills of Saarland to Idar-Oberstein (the Saar-Hunsruck Steig), then down to Pforzheim at the edge of the Black forest.

From here I followed the Westweg through the hills and mid-range mountains southwards to Freiburg, then eastwards to Konstanz at the Bodensee (the Querweg) through the Blackforest. The first leg of the trip was mainly accompanied by cold weather snow, above 900 m. often still more than a meter high (did not bring snowshoes). After walking around the Bodensee (northside) to Bregenz (Austria) I planned to walk the Maximilliansweg to Salzburg. However, due to the deep snow and high avalanche risk in the Bayerische Alpen (mid April) I couldnt continue my way a little beyond Hittisau (Austrian Voralgen) near the Austrian-German border and instead made a move to Munich. From Munich I walked to Salzburg, only reuniting with the Maximilliansweg (E4) a little after having past the Chiemsee. From Salzburg I walked over the Voralpenweg (also E4) to Vienna, only avoiding the peaks higher than 1500 m. due to the still persisting high snow levels.

Followed the E4 down south through Burgenland to the Hungarian border. At Koszeg I crossed the border. Then it was over the national Blue Trail, Europe's oldest long distance path, to Budapest. Three months walking, 2 hours flying back... This was the first time I ever undertook an activity like this. An incredible experience, both physically mentally challenging. I had no prior experience, which is why I did it: I always like to put myself into situations where I have no idea how I am going to handle myself. Call it Gonzo-outdoor.

I found that on a walk like this, time slows down to an incredible degree. 3 months, felt more like 3 years, a great change in a life in which it seems the years pass quicker and quicker. So much time and so much more chance to not miss anything! Completely unified with the weather, no escape when ones house is the forest. To me, it was life mag2: whatever is good, becomes great; whatever looks good, becomes deliciously beautiful; what is hard, becomes almost unbearable etc. The best experience of my life so far, though I think I've only gotten a tiny-taste of the (tip of the little) finger, and now want the the whole hand.